Fruit trees

peaches, apples, plums, nectarine all $25,

pears all $30,  feijoa all $15,  citrus all $20.

red and yellow tamarillo $3.60.

Rabbit Problems?

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Root quality is the most important thing (followed closely by stem thickness and plant height) when it comes to making a planting job successful. If the roots are good the plant will grow as best it can in the ground you put it in.  If you buy low grade and cheap as chips root trainers or plugs the success rate will be much lower (we do not sell root trainers or plugs).

Pictured above is our smallest revege grade we grow, our tall 5cm tube grade of Manuka.  It is 50mm square at the top and 120mm deep (a root trainer grade is 35 x 40mm & 110mm deep). 

Stem thickness is required so that the plant can support itself under normal breezes. When we plant revegetation we stake every tree so they don't get damaged when there are gusts or a storm.  Some people say it's a waste of time and money, but consider this: A stake will cost you 15-20 cents for small plants plus 2-5 cents for the tie (if you use a tape tool).  That means you only need to save 3-7% from dieing in order to cover the extra cost of staking.  I can assure you that i have seen plenty of private and proffessionally planted jobs where no staking has been done and there has been 25-90% loss after a storm or if they are in a high wind area.  Not to mention the fact that the remaining plants are damaged and take time to recover, thus increasing your period of maintenance required.

Plant height should not be too high.  We usually have our plants cut at 20-30 for our tall 5cm tubes, 30-45cm for our 9cm tube (1/2 litre), 40-60cm for 1 litre, 50-75cm for PB3 grade.  It is important for the plants to be cut in stages during their growth in the nursery so that the stem thickness increases.  Many nurseries don't do this at all or they cut them once, just before they are sold. The bigger the plant the more wind it will catch, and that will increase the risk of the plant being damaged.  If the plant has a strong stem and a good root ball and is not staked then the whole root ball can move in the hole you planted it in.  Every time it moves the small roots it is growing to anchor itself to the ground with are broken off.  Once again a stake (against the stem and through the rootball) will solve the problem.

It is simply dumb to work on the concept of buying, say 10,000 small (root trainers or plugs) at about $1.20 and then planting them and working on the theory that it's OK to loose lots because they were cheap.  It is more cost effective, faster, more rewarding and easier to plant a mix of mid-size grades (tall 5cm tubes, 1/2 litre, 1 litre, PB3).

Each site is different, but usually we will plant mostly 1/2 litre grades with some PB3 (usually the slower growing species) and some tall 5cm tube grade of manuka to infill gaps at the end of planting.  If there is lots of weed competition and you don't want to do any maintenance, then we use more of the bigger grades such as 1 litre instead of 1/2 litre.